Bright Angel to the Tonto, West to Hermit
>April 5-8, 2012
Trip Reporters: Daniel and Gary DeFraia
Hikers: Cheech Calenti, Daniel DeFraia, Gary DeFraia, Emily Perryman, Brian Keck
Cheech Calenti, Gary DeFraia and John Avello, childhood friends who have been hiking the Canyon together for years, all turned 60 this year and wanted to complete a celebratory hike to mark the event. But in a tough game time decision, due to a back problem, John wasn't able to make the trip, leaving Cheech and Gary representing the "old timers" with Daniel DeFraia (Gary's son), Emily Perryman (Cheech's niece) and friend Brian Keck representing the "youngsters" (under 30).
Our Trip Plan
Day 1: Hike down the Bright Angel from the South Rim, through Indian Gardens to our first night camp out on the Tonto Plateau between Horn Creek and Salt Creek.
Day 2: Hike through Salt Canyon and on to Monument Canyon. Second night camp at Monument Creek.
Day 3: Layover day. Third night at Monument Creek.
Day 4: Hike the Tonto Trail to the junction of the Hermit Trail and up the Hermit to the Rim.
April 3rd & 4th
On Wednesday the 3rd, we (Dan and Gary) flew to Tucson to meet Cheech and stay the night before driving to Grand Canyon Village on Thursday. We had reserved cabins at the Maswik Lodge for Thursday night, the 4th. On Thursday, Emily and Brian flew to Las Vegas to meet John to drive up with him. When John decided he could not make the trip, Emily and Brian drove to the rim, arriving very late.
First Crisis: Dan and the Wine. We always bring a few bottles into the canyon, which have to be opened and transferred into light plastic bottles. But we forgot a corkscrew. Facing the prospect of no wine on the trip, Dan grabbed his pocket knife and stated he would get the wine out by cutting the cork. "OK. But don't cut yourself," Cheech said. So of course, the knife slipped and slashed Dan's pointer finger. Pressure worked. No stitches needed but he still bares the scar. But we did get the wine into the plastic bottles. Crisis averted.
Day One: April 5th - South Rim to Tonto Plateau, East of Horn Creek
Mileage Day One: From the Rim to the first night camp on the Tonto was about 9 miles.
After breakfast at the Lodge, we started out at the Bright Angel Trailhead at the South Rim around 9:30 am and made it easily to Indian Gardens for lunch. Since there was water along the trail and at Indian Gardens, we did not have to carry much for the initial 3000 feet descent to the Gardens. This lightened our packs for part of the first day. However, since the water in Horn Creek (the first creek we would cross), is radioactive from a uranium mine upstream and the next creek, Salt Creek (that we would cross the next day) is mineralized, we had to fill up at Indian Gardens and pack a lot of water for a dry camp on the Tonto Plateau that night and for the next morning?s hike.
Trail Junction: Dan, Brian and Emily
Cheech and Emily: Tonto Trail west of Indian Gardens
Where are we? Cheech and Gary trying to figure that out. Does this photo instill confidence in fellow hikers?
Horn Creek: As they say, "Don't drink the water"
The Tonto: Out on the Tonto, under Dana Butte, between Horn and Salt Creek.
Dan and Cheech: They are in "celebration mode". Celebration mode is officially limited to the time from the first step into the Canyon to until we climb out onto the Rim.
Bryan: Mastering a key Canyon survival technique
Day Two: April 6th - East of Horn Creek, Through Salt Creek to Monument Canyon
Mileage: From the Tonto into Salt Creek and into Monument Canyon was about 7 miles
The Tonto's appeal is its breathtaking, panoramic views and its isolation from hiker traffic. Its risk is cold, high winds all night. We experienced both. After a chilly morning made more comfortable by a warm breakfast, we enjoyed the views and Dan experimented with some photos of the river in the early morning light. Sunrise and sunset are great times sit down and watch the shadows of the canyon move.
Before turning south towards Salt Creek, the trail to Salt Canyon follows the drop off to the river. While trail descriptions for Salt Creek say to not drink the water, Rangers said they have drank it at times with no ill effects. But Cheech and Gary had experienced drinking mineralized water from Toltec Creek on the Royal Arch Route. But then, they had no choice as they were out of water. Their memories were not pleasant and they decided we would not chance it. It was not a concern as it was not a hard hike to Monument Canyon. As it turned out we found water running at Cedar Spring between Salt Creek and Monument Canyon. We arrived in Monument early afternoon and picked a campsite where we would spend two nights. There were several hiking parties in Monument, a popular destination.
Sunrise on the Tonto
Tonto Plateau. Along the trail
The trail above the Colorado on the Tonto Plateau
Cedar Spring: West of Salt Creek the spring was running so we were able to replace water for the hike into Monument Canyon
Second Camp: We arrive at Monument Creek
Day Three: April 7th. Layover in Monument Canyon
Mileage: Down Monument Creek to the River and back was about 3 miles.
This was our layover day and we decided to hike down to the river, spend the heat of the day there (as the campsite had minimal shade) and then hike up Monument Creek back to the campsite, A good part of the time during our layover in Monument was spent on a group effort to complete a tough New York Times crossword puzzle. Cheech's mother, Florence, who had passed away earlier this year, was a great fan of crossword puzzles and recruited her children into her hobby. Cheech brought some for the trip. This presented us with our second crisis.
Second Crisis: No pen or pencil for the crossword puzzles. We tried a few things unsuccessfully: First a soft rock which we thought would act like chalk. No luck. Then the tip of some burnt matches. Again no luck. Finally we found some small pieces of burnt wood (despite the ban on burning wood in the canyon). If we used a small enough piece we could write letters that were legible and actually fit into the squares of the puzzle. Problem solved and we finished the puzzles. Canyoneers are nothing if not resourceful. It was a kind of a fitting tribute to Florence - how our group persisted in finding a way to complete the puzzles and then the group effort to come up with the answers.
Our third night camp, again at Monument Creek was a great evening, story telling, joking around and yes, finishing the crossword puzzles, with Cheech doing the writing with fingernail size pieces of charcoal.
Dan at the Monument: On the trail to the river
Dan at the River: Looking for a place to engage in the survival technique demonstrated previously by Bryan
Grand Canyon Survivalist Extraordinaire
Cheech and Gary at the River: Now at age 60, they make it once again to the bottom of the Grand Canyon. They intend for this to not be their last time.
Monument?s Slot Canyon: The hike up Monument Creek
Cheech Needs a Hand: He?s getting on in years, you know.
One old timer shows how it?s done?
Then the other shows us
Gary & Dan
Day Four: April 8th - Monument Creek, Tonto Plateau and Hermit Trail to the Rim
Mileage: 9 miles from Monument Canyon to the Rim.
The ascent from Monument Canyon to the Rim is tough ascent of over 4000 feet. Bryan and Emily had to drive back to Las Vegas right after climbing out so they took off fast with Cheech. Gary and Dan never caught them. The Tonto between Monument and Hermit Canyon is the usual "relatively flat" terrain, until the junction of the Hermit Trail west of Cope Butte. Then it climbs, climbs and climbs, an ascent of 1200 feet over only about a mile to the top of Cathedral Stairs. In comparison, the hike up through Breezy Point and Lookout Point to Santa Maria Spring is relatively easy with one set of switchbacks. But when you get to the junction of the Dripping Springs Trail, it is basically straight up 1400 feet to the Rim. As Canyoneers say, "It takes no prisoners".
Out of Monument Canyon: Back out on the Tonto with magnificent views
Hermit Trail: Dan on the steep grade, waiting for Gary to catch up. I sure hope Dad is down there somewhere. Some might wonder how the Hermit's "stairs" got there. During the Great Depression, President Franklin D. Roosevelt created a work relief program, the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC). CCC workers, one of whom Gary knows, worked on this trail. The unemployed from all over America joined the corps and helped make our national parks more accessible to the general public. Thanks boys!
Three Amigos: At the Hermit?s Rest trailhead
April 9th, 10th - Tucson and Travel Home
As soon as they climbed out of the Canyon, Emily and Brian left right away for Las Vegas to fly home the next day. Cheech, Gary and Dan reserved a room at the Yavapai Lodge to stay the night. The next day, we drove back to Tucson, had a terrific Mexican Dinner and flew back to New York. What else can you say? Another great Canyon trip.