1981 and 1983
Two trips to Havasupai
In the early eighties, we did two trips to Havasupai, the first in the Spring of 1981 (I think) and the second in March of 1983. This account lumps them both together since I didn't keep logs of either trip. In 1981 Tom and I did the trip in beautiful weather, as evidenced by this photo of me in Havasu creek. Unlike other trails off the rim, there are no panoramic vistas once you get past the switchbacks from Hualapai hilltop. The trail follows the drainage of Hualapai Canyon until it levels out at Havasu Creek. Going southeast from here will take you to Cataract Canyon, but we of course headed in the other direction, toward the village of Supai. The area is green and fertile, and the path to Supai was well traveled by hikers as well as natives.
After stopping to verify our permit at the hiking office in Supai, we continued the two miles past the village to the campground. Along the way we past fenced fields of grazing horses, children who eyed us curiously, and natives gardening outside their simple dwellings.
The water was cold but clear and the travertine deposits of Havasu falls, coupled with the turquoise color of the water, were spectacular.(Thats me in the distance) We spent three days and two nights exploring the region, heading down the chained descent to the base of Mooney falls and then down for quite a way along the creek until we were stopped by a rather intimidating wall.
On the day we hiked out we stopped for breakfast in the village and feasted on scrumptious indian fry bread.
In March of 1983, we had a larger group, consisting of left to right Chris Ralston, Ginny Ralston, Tim Ralston, Tom Ralston, Gail Scheer and myself. This March trip was cold on the top, as evidenced by our warm clothing, and miserable at the bottom, where it rained pretty much the entire time, turning the beautiful turquoise color of Havasu creek into a muddy brown. With the brown water, it was impossible to see the beautiful travertine formations. Still, the falls were pretty impressive. [Mooney Falls]. [Mooney falls again] [Mooney Falls from within the chain descent area] [Havasu falls].
Ginny had a rough hike and we helped her with her pack the last couple of miles. Unfortunaely she stiffened up during that first cold night and couldn't get out of her bag the next day. Tom walked to town to get coffee for her and to arrange a horse out for her the next day. The weather was such that we decided to cut the trip short a day (two nights instead of three, and on the morning of the third day Gail,Tim and I headed out. It was a long hike and we didn't arrive at the hilltop until after dark, in a raging snowstorm. We headed to Las Vegas where we drowned our aches in some well deserved decadence. The rest of the group had to wait an extra day for the horse but eventually got out unscathed. It was a memorable trip, albeit cold and dreary.